Canada #35 Québec
The beating of drums drowned out the sounds of early morning commuters as we entered Old Québec through Porte St Jean. Next to Artillery Park, a sergeant of the Compagnies Franche gave a stirring speech encouraging us to join the Governor’s guard. As an added incentive, an artillery man fired his musket, the blast disturbing birds resting in nearby trees.
We weren’t tempted to enlist. Instead, we joined Canada Parks guide Pierre-Olivier for a walk along the ramparts of Québec City.
The fortified walls surrounding Old Québec are the only remaining city walls in North America north of Mexico. Recognised as both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada, the defensive system of walls dates from the 17th to the 19th centuries. Beginning at Porte St Jean, we climbed to the top of the ramparts. While we enjoyed views of the old city and the newer areas beyond the ramparts, we learned how the walls were constructed, looked inside a soldier’s casemate, fortified to protect the guns inside, and learned how ammunition was stored in the powder magazine.
When our walk with Pierre-Olivier ended at Porte St Louis, we continued along the ramparts to La Promenades des Gouverneurs, a walkway built in 1958 to commemorate Québec’s 350th anniversary.
The 655 metre path clings to the side of Cap Diamant, where the fortifications of the old city are still visible. We stopped many times to admire the broad expanse of the mighty St Lawrence River.
After descending 310 steps we arrived at Terrasse Dufferin, named for Lord Dufferin, Governor General of Canada from 1872 to 1878. It was due to his intervention that Québec’s famous city walls were saved from demolition, before being repaired and restored. In his final act as Governor General, Lord Dufferin laid the foundation stone for the terrace that bears his name.
The 671 metre boardwalk, high above the river, leads from the promenade to the base of Château Frontenac, Québec’s famous luxury hotel, opened in 1893.
At the end of the terrace, we boarded the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec for an ride down the steep hill to Petit-Champlain and Place Royale, site of the first French settlement in North America in 1608. It was easy to imagine we’d been transported to 17th century France as we wandered along cobblestoned streets past beautiful French styled buildings.
Before parting ways with Pierre-Olivier earlier in the day, we’d asked him what he would suggest we do in Québec. His recommendation – a 12 minute ferry ride across the St Lawrence River to Lévis. After several hours of walking, it made a nice change to sit on the outside deck enjoying the cool breeze. From the ferry terminal, we walked along Quai Paquet, where children played among 160 jets of a fountain set into the pavement.
A red wooden staircase zigzagging up the cliff beckoned and, with no idea what was at the top, we climbed up. All we found was a quiet suburban street, but when we turned around the view over the river to Québec City, with Château Frontenac towering above the old town, was stunning.
After returning on the ferry, we joined the crowds in front of the Fresque des Québécois mural, painted on the side of Maison Soumande. The beautifully detailed mural depicts fifteen of Québec’s most important historical people, including the city’s founder Samuel de Champlain and its protector, Lord Dufferin.
Instead of ascending on the funiculaire, we climbed our third set of stairs for the day. The Escalier Casse-Cou, also known as the Breakneck Stairs because of their steep incline, are the city’s oldest steps, built in 1635. When we reached the top, we had one last Québecois destination in mind – Chocolato. This chocolate themed café on Rue Saint-Jean has an incredible range of ice creams, sorbets and sundaes and the most difficult decision of the whole day was what to choose. After much deliberation, we ordered sundaes; mine was a Forêt Noir, Glen’s a Caramel Royal.
Our day ended where it had begun, at Porte St Jean, but this time the beating we could hear was not the drums calling us to action, but our hearts as we savoured every delicious mouthful of our afternoon treats.
Join Jo for Monday Walks
I was traveling along with you on this adventure, and then that mural appeared. Now, that is a show stopper. Then you added in some great dessert. You do know how to have a good time. 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
Isn’t the mural amazing. Everywhere I looked there was more fine detail. When it comes to dessert, I am an expert!
LikeLiked by 1 person
A very interesting and active day. Enjoying your trip through Canada. You visited places I have not seen. Thanks for sharing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was a great day and we learned a lot about the history of the city. Maybe you should plan an east coast trip.
LikeLike
Quebec has always appealed to me – all that wonderful French opulence and glorious views. You showcased it perfectly. Isn’t that mural utterly gorgeous – that’s how ‘street art’ should be, I felt very pleased that you ended the day with a rich sundae – although it really should have been bread, cheese and wine 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh Pauline, an afternoon treat of bread, cheese and wine would have been nice too but after all those steps I felt a big chocolatey sundae was the way to go. 🙂 There are several beautiful murals in Quebec. This one was stunning.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Did you actually count those 310 steps?? You got to quite a few of my favorite spots – e.g., the mural and Chocolato! Did you notice the ceiling at Chocolato? Lovely photos – as always.
LikeLiked by 1 person
No, but that’s what the sign said and it sure felt like 310. Thank goodness we were going down not up. I took photos of the drippy chocolate ceiling. 🙂 Such a fun café to visit – we went there every day! I was hoping we would find a Chocolato in Montreal, but no luck.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s the only city in North America that reminds me of Europe. An absolute joy to visit. Thanks for your wonderful photos and commentary.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Glad you enjoyed this post. We spent four days here and loved it so much.
LikeLike
Those cobblestone streets and French inspired surroundings are just beautiful. Very enchanting 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s the most beautiful city and even beyond those city walls the architecture is very pretty. We really enjoyed staying there for a few days.
LikeLike
Fabulous, Carol! I enjoyed every step 🙂 🙂 What a beautiful city! I love the contrast of old and new. I was smiling to myself as I started reading your post, because on Wednesday afternoon, after our Portuguese lesson in Olháo, we were treated to a display by the military in just such costumes as you portray. They were led by a swaggering captain, having the time of his life. 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
It’s like dress ups for adults!
LikeLike
🙂 🙂
LikeLike
oh wow what a wonderful walk, but sooo many steps!! No wonder you needed refreshment at the end.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That was my excuse! And that’s why we did so much walking every other day we were there, because we visited Chocolato every day. 🙂
LikeLike
Loved it! 😍
LikeLike
It looks like a beautiful city. I loved the murals, incredible detail. I think my heart would have beating from walking up all of those stairs. Looked like you earned your ice cream Sunday.
LikeLike
It’s been years since I was in Quebec, and much seems to have changed. It looks like you had a lovely day, topped off by that delicious chocolate sundae!
LikeLiked by 1 person
We did enjoy that day and the sundaes were delicious.
LikeLiked by 1 person
We adore Quebec City and so many of your photos took us right back to locations we have visited. We did not take the ferry however so will have to add that to a future trip. Thanks for the suggestion!
LikeLiked by 1 person
When you do, plan to spend some time there. After such a full day we didn’t have time or the inclination to walk further but there is more to see in Levis as well.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you for bringing back some amazing memories of Quebec! I loved it there 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
We did too Lorraine. It was so pretty and we loved learning the history.
LikeLike
Damn, now I am craving an ice cream sundae.
Thank you for more easy to take history, ET.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m glad you enjoyed this post Yvonne. Those sundaes were amazing – I had one every day we were there. Lucky we did so much walking!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I fondly remember marshmallow sundaes from when I was a kid in Saskatchewan. And, sinfully good banana splits.
LikeLike
Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : Serra do Topo to Fajá dos Cubros | restlessjo
My head was in a whirl when admiring You beautiful photos. Thank You.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Quebec is a very pretty city.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pingback: More Than a Battlefield | The Eternal Traveller
I think your decision not to enlist but to take the tour with Pierre-Olivier was clearly the best one! It looks like a beautiful, and interesting, place. To finish off with a visit to a chocolate cafe was also a good one! 🙂
LikeLike
Absolutely! 🙂
LikeLike
LOVE THE SITE, THE PHOTOGRAPHS ARE FANTASTIC, CHINA
china.alexandria@livingthedream.blog
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you!
LikeLike
Love murals! Great article and photos – thanks for sharing. 🙂
LikeLike
This one had so much detail. We could have looked it for ages, even though we didn’t know all the characters.
LikeLiked by 1 person