A Rainy Day in Christchurch

A new adventure begins! We fly to Melbourne where we spend a couple of days before embarking on the cruise ship Grand Princess for a 13 night circumnavigation of New Zealand. Returning to land, our holiday continues at Phillip Island and ends with one last day back where we started in Melbourne. Join me for a round trip, on sea and on land, to destinations both familiar and new.

March 2023

Ōtautahi / Christchurch

It was rainy and cold in Christchurch but we found a great way to stay dry, on a Christchurch Tram. With interesting commentary by the drivers and 17 stops around the city centre, we were able to explore in comfort. On such a wet day we chose to alight at just a few stops on the route.

As we rode along the tram driver told us about the earthquakes which struck Christchurch on 4th September, 2010 and again on 22nd February, 2011. While the first earthquake was stronger at magnitude 7.1, the second at magnitude 6.3 caused widespread devastation and killed 185 people. Our driver explained how the city is rebuilding using construction techniques designed to withstand future tremors.

To learn more about the 2011 earthquake we left the tram at Quake City, a special exhibition by Canterbury Museum. Displays explaining the science of the earthquake and the response, from both local and international personnel, gave us a greater understanding of what happened to the city and its people.

Back on the tram, we went next to Cathedral Square. After reading about the destruction of Christ Church Cathedral, it was heartening to see firsthand the ongoing restoration work, scheduled for completion in 2027.

Other stops on the tram route included New Regent Street and Victoria Square.

New Regent Street is a wide pedestrian mall with shops, boutiques and cafés on either side of the tram line. We admired the pastel coloured Spanish Mission style buildings dating from the 1930s.

During a break in the rain at Victoria Square we saw Queen Victoria and Mana Motuhake, a Māori commemoration of the Treaty of Waitangi.

We finally left the tram at the top of City Mall. Here we stopped to pay our respects to past and present members of New Zealand’s Defence Forces at the Bridge of Remembrance, a beautiful war memorial spanning the Avon River.

It was a short walk along the mall to the Riverside Market. The indoor farmers’ market, selling local produce and artisan foods was a welcome respite from the rain. We enjoyed a hot lunch and the beer lovers sampled a local brew at the Canterbury Brewers Collective.

After beginning our day in Christchurch at Quake City, it seemed fitting to finish at the Oi Manawa Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial, located beside the Avon River close to the Bridge of Remembrance. The Māori name for the memorial, Oi Manawa, means ‘tremor or quivering of the heart’.

The curved stone wall is inscribed with the names of the 185 people who died in the 2011 earthquake.

Back on board our ship late in the afternoon, the rain finally stopped and the sky was clear again. The setting sun cast a golden glow over the water as we sailed out of Lyttleton Harbour en route to Wellington.

Walking Around Dunedin

A new adventure begins! We fly to Melbourne where we spend a couple of days before embarking on the cruise ship Grand Princess for a 13 night circumnavigation of New Zealand. Returning to land, our holiday continues at Phillip Island and ends with one last day back where we started in Melbourne. Join me for a round trip, on sea and on land, to destinations both familiar and new.

March 2023

Ōtepoti / Dunedin

After three days on board the ship we were ready to do some walking, and we had all day to explore the compact city centre of Dunedin.

We started at the Octagon, a large eight-sided pedestrian precinct surrounded by shops and grand Victorian buildings.

Two contrasting sculptures symbolise the city’s cultural heritage. Ko te Tuhono is a replica of a carved entrance at the Māori meeting house Ōtākou marae, one of the locations of the 1840  signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.

Nearby, a statue of Robert Burns is one of four created by Scottish sculptor John Steell. The others are in Dundee, London and New York City. Dunedin was chosen as the location for this fourth statue in recognition of the city’s Scottish history.

At the Otago Settlers Museum we learned about the two Māori settlements  of Ōtepoti and Puketai and the culture of the people who first lived here.

St Paul’s Anglican  Cathedral, constructed in the early 1900s, was damaged by fire in 2020. While the beautiful stained glass windows were saved, the chancel was destroyed. Work is underway to restore the damaged areas of the church.

The famous Renaissance-style façade of the Dunedin Railway Station was covered due to restoration works but the building was still open. The magnificent interior features Royal Doulton cherubs and foliage on the walls, 750,000 Royal Doulton tiles on the mosaic floor and stained glass windows on the mezzanine.

All these beautiful buildings are surrounded by expansive parks and gardens.

Queen Victoria overlooks her namesake Queens Gardens and the spectacular 28 metre high Dunedin Cenotaph. Close to the war memorial is another small memorial dedicated to New Zealand recipients of the Victoria Cross.

With two beer lovers in our party of four, our walking tour of Dunedin would have been incomplete without a visit to Speight’s Brewery and Ale House. Knowing that beer has been brewed here since 1876, their expectations were high.

And they weren’t disappointed!

Joining Jo for Monday Walks

The Impressionists ~ Larger Than Life

A new adventure begins! We fly to Melbourne where we spend a couple of days before embarking on the cruise ship Grand Princess for a 13 night circumnavigation of New Zealand. Returning to land, our holiday continues at Phillip Island and ends with one last day back where we started in Melbourne. Join me for a round trip, on sea and on land, to destinations both familiar and new.

The Lume, Melbourne

After seeing the fabulous Van Gogh Alive in Brisbane in 2021, we were thrilled that a similar exhibition featuring the French Impressionists was on in Melbourne. It was a joy to revisit some of our favourite artists at Monet and Friends, and also to meet some whose work was new to us.

Held at The Lume, Australia’s first permanent digital art gallery located in the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre, the exhibition was simply breath-taking. 143 projectors cast high definition images of some of the world’s most famous artworks onto the walls and floor of the gallery. Classical music, animations and the words of the artists brought the paintings alive for us in an unforgettable sensory experience.

From the mezzanine the whole gallery opened up before us. The world’s best loved paintings filled the walls four storeys high and moved slowly across the floor below.

At floor level we were surrounded by a constantly changing spectacle of light and colour.

People, unknown but made famous in works by Monet, Degas and Renoir, glowed larger than life.

At the Café de Flore, we added to the sensory delight with a Plat aux Quatre Macarons in flavours of salted caramel, strawberry, passionfruit and pistachio.

If Monet and his friends come to a gallery near you, make sure you go. This extraordinary sensory experience is not to be missed.

A Big Collection

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Western Queensland

Thank you for coming with us on our road trip through Queensland’s Outback. We saw dinosaurs and dunnarts, learned about iconic Australians and enjoyed spectacular scenery. This final post celebrates Western Queensland’s “big” things – some fun and quirky, others functional or natural.  Let’s take one last ride around the Outback.

The Big Meat Ant – Augathella

“The Ringer” – Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame, Longreach

The world’s biggest Van Gogh Sunflower painting – Emerald

The Big Red Chair – Charleville

In the Outback, bore water drawn from the Great Artesian Basin is a highly valued resource. The water is stored in towers or tanks which dominate the landscape in small country towns. Many are painted with scenes depicting the history or people of the town.

illuminated water tower – Julia Creek

painted water tower – Charleville

painted water tower – Augathella

painted water tank – Richmond

A mural on the wall of the newsagent in Winton commemorates the 1995 Guinness World Record for the longest road train, held by local man Alan Grant.

The Outback is a land of big skies and wide open spaces.

on the road between Hughenden and Muttaburra

sunset – Winton

And finally some Australian birds with big long legs, for Denzil’s long-legged bird photo challenge

white egrets – Judd’s Lagoon

brolga – Rubyvale

In The Middle

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Muttaburra

As well as being the home of Muttaburrasaurus langdoni, the little town of Muttaburra also has another claim to fame. It is the closest town to the geographic centre of Queensland. To celebrate its unique location, the community created a wonderful monument, rich in symbolism and history.

 Beside the monument is a timeline of the town’s history, in the form of an historical pathway. Pavers placed in chronological order are engraved with significant local events. Posts aligned with the pathway show annual rainfall totals since 1885; their height equals the rainfall for each year. 

The most moving element of the monument is the seating in the meeting place, created by local school children. Symbols on each disc connecting the children to their town, its past, present and future, invite visitors to Muttaburra to sit a while, close to the centre of Queensland. 

Meeting Muttaburrasaurus

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Muttaburra

There are dinosaurs on every street corner in Muttaburra.

The most famous prehistoric resident of Muttaburra, however, has his own special exhibition at the Muttaburrasaurus Interpretation Centre.

In 1963, the skeleton of a previously unknown dinosaur was found by Doug Langdon on a property near Muttaburra. Later, when the skeleton was excavated by palaeontologist Dr Alan Bartholomai, it was named Muttaburrasaurus langdoni.

Muttaburrasaurus lived in this part of northern Queensland between 112 and 103 million years ago. He was primarily a herbivore although the shape of his jaw and teeth suggest he may have also been a meat eater. 

The interpretation centre bearing his name features displays describing the discovery of the first skeleton, replicas of the fossilised bones and a timeline of the earth’s palaeontological history. 

While the fossilised remains of four more of these unique dinosaurs have since been discovered in other parts of northern Australia, the most famous will always be the one found near Muttaburra.

Watch Out For Dinosaurs!

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Hughenden

There are dinosaurs everywhere in Hughenden.

The Flinders Discovery Centre has a large display of fossils from all around the world. They range in size from this ancient dinosaur egg found in China to the huge replica skeleton of Muttaburrasaurus langdoni, created using fossil remains discovered near Muttaburra and Hughenden. This herbivorous giant of the dinosaur world lived on the land surrounding the Eromanga Sea up to 112 million years ago.

Outside, it looks like some of the specimens have escaped from the display; there are dinosaurs all around town.

Mutt, a life sized replica of Muttaburrasaurus, stands on the corner of Stansfield and Gray Streets. 

Darby, another Muttaburrasaurus made from scrap metal, decorates a wall in Brodie Street.

Further along Brodie Street is a metal sculpture of a Queensland Pterosaur, fondly known as Leanneosaur. This flying reptile lived in the region at the same time as Muttaburrasaurus. 

While Muttaburrausaurus and Pterosaur lived on land, ammonites inhabited the waters of the vast inland sea. This oversized metal sculpture perfectly captures the beautiful shape of these ancient animals.

Luckily none of these prehistoric creatures is as fierce as they look!

Fossil Hunters, Part Two

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Richmond  

At The Australian Age of Dinosaurs in Winton we learned how professional palaeontologists work side by side with trained volunteers to find and excavate dinosaur fossils. At Richmond, amateur fossil hunters are welcome to do their own fossicking at designated sites. So, armed with our fossicking licence purchased at Kronosaurus Korner, the necessary tools, and visions of making the next big fossil discovery, we drove out to the fossicking site.

Even though it looked like any other part of outback Queensland, we knew some significant finds had been made here so we were excited to start searching.

With picks in hand Glen and Kevin each selected a starting point. They both got to work, carefully chipping away at anything which looked promising. 

I was happy to wander, turning stones over with the toe of my shoe and poking around in the dirt. Ripples preserved in the rock reminded me of the time when this land was under water. 

In this area rich with the remains of prehistoric marine creatures, it wasn’t long before we started finding fossils; ancient bivalves, so similar to their modern descendants, forever preserved in the soft sandstone. 

We may not have found a huge Kronosaurus queenslandicus buried just beneath the surface, but the thrill of holding in our hands creatures who lived 110 million years ago was just as exciting.

Sea Creatures

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Richmond

If you’d visited outback Queensland 110 million years ago you would have found most of it submerged under what is now known as the Eromanga Sea, a vast inland ocean covering 1 million square kilometres. And if you’d gone swimming you would have come face to face with the huge marine reptiles and fish which lived in it. Where the town of Richmond is now located the water reached depths of up to 40 metres, making it the ideal home for plesiosaurs, ichthyosaurs and elasmosaurids. 

Of course, people weren’t on Earth then and after one million years the sea and its inhabitants disappeared. But you can see the marine animals who lived in the Eromanga Sea at Richmond’s Kronosaurus Korner. The museum has the best collection of marine fossils in Australia, most found locally. Amazing displays of fossils, information boards, illustrations and models bring these prehistoric marine creatures to life. 

As well as these giant marine reptiles, large ammonites and predatory fish lived in the Eromanga Sea. 

While the Eromanga Sea no longer exists, there is a lovely lake at Richmond. Lake Fred Tritton, a manmade recreational waterway filled by the Flinders River, is a popular place for boating, swimming and fishing. And even though the water is home to 18 species of freshwater fish, you won’t come across anything as large as Kronosaurus queenslandicus!

Remembrance

The landscape of western Queensland is dramatic. After a good wet season, Mitchell grass grows thickly on the vast plains. Elsewhere the land is stony and dotted with clumps of hardy spinifex. But if you’d travelled this way 95 million years ago, the scenery would have been very different. In the Mid-Cretaceous period forests of conifers, lush ferns and flowering plants covered the land, watered by rivers and streams which flowed into a huge inland sea. And it was inhabited by dinosaurs! 

In August 2022, we followed the Dinosaur Trail through western Queensland, on a route from Winton to Richmond, Hughenden and Muttaburra, all locations where dinosaur fossils have been discovered. Put your Australian Dinosaur Trail Pass in your pocket and join us on a journey back in time to the land of the dinosaurs. 

Julia Creek

The ANZAC Centenary Memorial Sculpture is a beautiful work of art located in front of the RSL in Julia Creek.

The Spirit of the Light Horse, created by artist Sue Tilley, features a life-sized sculpture of an infantryman mounted on a horse. Made from locally sourced metal objects, the man and his horse are intricately detailed.

Behind them, six silhouetted figures of the Light Horse Brigade prepare for battle. 

The soldier and his horse are so realistic it seems they might ride away at any moment. 

Even the expression on the soldier’s face tells a story.

Read more about the Australian Light Horse in Feathers In Their Caps